The Camino, a Path to Empowerment

When I turned 71, I decided it was time to walk the Camino de Santiago, something I thought I’d do much earlier in life but never did. People from all over the world — since at least the ninth century — make pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain, throughout the year.

Early pilgrims trekked there to reduce their time in purgatory. Today’s pilgrims go for many, often deeply personal reasons: to find spiritual peace, escape from work or life stresses, cope with grief or difficult life circumstances, or spend time with friends and loved ones. Walking the Camino is a journey with many rewards and can be a powerful, transformative experience.

To prepare, I talked to friends who had walked the Camino, then attended a Canadian Company of Pilgrims workshop in Victoria. There, I met Camino enthusiasts happy to share experiences in person, by email, and on training walks. Members of Camino Facebook groups discussed various aspects of the walk, and some even posted photos.

My husband, unable to walk the distance, said excitedly, “I’ll join you and take taxis to the stopovers.” An itinerary I planned and pre-booked gave us peace of mind. Cellphones helped us stay in touch during the day and enabled me to take photos of my journey.

Of the various routes to Santiago de Compostela, I chose the Portuguese Central, beginning in Valença do Minho, Portugal, a small city across the Rio Minho from Spain. A revered Camino expert’s guidebook claimed this route was the flattest. I mentioned this to a young pilgrim as we trudged up yet another steep incline in hilly Galicia and he quipped, “Throw that book out!”

The walk was satisfying, even on long, arduous days. Each sunrise brought a renewed sense of well-being in the verdant countryside of Galicia with its abundant streams and rivers, crisp earthy scents, dense forest, and charming towns and villages. I walked alone but always had good company. While walking, I talked with other pilgrims about their lives, families, hopes and dreams, and what drew them to the Camino.

Physical training and quality gear were key to my successful Camino experience. Throughout the winter, I cross-trained in the pool, on my bike, and walked, as well as added balance and strength exercises at home.

Hiking pants and long-sleeved T-shirts were perfect for late spring weather, protecting me from the sun and insects. I packed light, carrying only ultralight rain gear, water, snacks, first-aid items, and my wallet. The hiking poles I bought in a store along the way were useful.

Because my feet are fussy, I did everything I could to ensure my walk wouldn’t end painfully or prematurely. This included orthotics, foam-tread sneakers, ankle braces, KT tape, and toe socks with another wool blend pair on top. I saw pilgrims bandaging blisters or sitting out until their feet healed and was thankful not to have these issues.

My walking days during the last week of April were sunny and mild with temps around 12–18 C, but the last day was wet. Unable to find the yellow Camino arrow markers after leaving our countryside lodging, I stayed on a road that led to the main highway. I was quite visible in a bright yellow rain poncho, but cars turned onto the highway, oblivious to my plight. When I called my husband, he encouraged me to catch a lift.

The rain intensified and cars and transport trucks whizzed by on the highway. My luck turned though, when a woman on her way to work at a toy shop downtown rolled down her window and offered me a ride. The saying “the Camino will provide” proved true that day. We chatted in Spanish as she navigated the downpour, water everywhere.

Once the rain slowed to a drizzle, I thanked the woman profusely for her kindness and resumed my walk through the streets of Santiago de Compostela. When I arrived at the narrow cobblestone streets of the old town and the cathedral, I felt a mixture of elation and relief as my journey concluded.

At the credentials office near the cathedral, I received a certificate of the 124-km walk and my official Compostela (the document that certifies that a pilgrim has completed the Camino de Santiago), a pair of keepsakes to treasure. Walking the Camino gave me a keen sense of empowerment and I loved everything about it.

Delia McRae
Delia McCrae taught Spanish and French with Edmonton Public Schools and served as president of the ATA’s Second Language and Intercultural Council. While studying in Spain, Delia had been inspired to walk the Camino. Decades later she finally connected with the ethos of a deeply rooted centuries-old Camino community that is still thriving today.