Tren Maya Railway: Travelling Through Mexico with Ease
Delia McCrae | Article and Photos
Mexico’s new Tren Maya, an intercity railway with more than fifteen hundred kilometres of track, runs across the Yucatán peninsula, linking cities across five Mexican states.
This railway system opens an exciting world of travel adventures in an area rich with Maya heritage. Travellers can now visit archaeological sites, cities, and communities throughout the Yucatán peninsula and nearby states of Tabasco, Campeche, Chiapas, and Quintana Roo by train.
The Tren Maya, a vision of former President López Obrador, was a controversial project, connecting a vast area and providing transport for people and goods. There were ecological and cultural concerns, including deforestation, disruption of waterways, and displacement of indigenous communities. While a source of pride for Mexicans, the Tren Maya is not necessarily loved by all. The train was a huge expenditure and primarily benefits the southern region of the country. On the other hand, many people in the villages feel it will be a real asset to help them modernize and connect.
Currently, about half the Tren Maya passengers are Mexican tourists. Some of our fellow passengers were Mexican tourists from another state, enjoying the opportunity to board the new train and explore places that usually involve a long drive. The train also serves those who migrate to the Riviera Maya for work, reducing car dependency. Adoption of the train by workers will depend on whether the timing, scheduling, routing, and price align well enough with their needs. Another bonus is that rail transportation of goods throughout the area reduces truck traffic.
One of the great appeals of the Yucatán area is the ease of flying non-stop from Canada to either Cancún or Mérida, where hospitable inhabitants and cultural and historic treasures await. You can begin your trip at either the Tren Maya station near the Cancún airport or at Mérida. Visit the website trenmaya.gob.mx for scheduling, tickets, and route map. At each Tren Maya stop, a transfer takes you into a village or city centre, allowing you to explore further.
Mérida, capital of the Yucatán, is a charming urban experience. From there, you can easily arrange day trips through local travel agents in the centre square. Visit Chichén Itzá or Uxmal, see the flamingos and tour the mangroves in the Ría Celestún Biosphere Reserve on the Caribbean coast, cool off in a cenote, visit local markets, and sample local cuisine — the possibilities are endless.
You can also visit several UNESCO world heritage sites aboard the Tren Maya. In Campeche, a colourful colonial city on the Gulf of Mexico, walk atop the historic walls of the fortified city, or take a bus tour. Nearby Edzná, a regional Maya capital between 400–1000 CE, is impressive and not crowded.
We stopped in Xpujil, a small Maya village near Calakmul, located in the dense jungle of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, the third largest in the world and second largest in the Americas after the Amazon. Train travel makes this archaeological site easy to access, and a newly constructed hotel provides accommodation near the ruins.
Our Hotel Maya Balam in nearby Xpujil turned out to be a gem in the jungle with an outdoor restaurant, air-conditioned rooms, and banana palms in the courtyard. It was an immersive jungle experience with comforts, cheerful chirping birds, and a boxed lunch when we headed out for the day. The hotel helped us arrange a taxi to the Calakmul archaeological site. Our driver, also a trained guide, accompanied us throughout.
If you want to learn more about pre-Columbian history, visit Palenque by train or visit Maya sites around Kohunlich from Chetumal. Tours or taxis can take you into some of these unique locations.
Bacalar, on the Lagoon of Seven Colours, is a tranquil tourist destination. It offers many choices for accommodation, restaurants, and activities, including a walk on the boardwalk through the mangroves or a dip in the lagoon. On our sunset tour, Zuri, a local Maya boat captain, told us this community was founded in 415 BCE. The Spanish seized it in 1543 and later built the Fortress of San Felipe to keep out pirates who raided the area for hardwood.
Between Bacalar and Cancún along the Riviera Maya, numerous interesting stops are popular with tourists, including Playa del Carmen and Tulum. Enjoy the beaches or take a ferry to Cozumel. Tulum’s UNESCO world heritage archaeological site overlooks the sparkling turquoise blue Caribbean. Escape into nature at the nearby Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve.
For travellers, the train provides an unequalled opportunity to explore southern Mexico. Modern stations and trains are monitored by members of the national guard and local staff trained to help tourists, assuring safety and comfort.
If you want to explore Mexico and are flexible, the ultra-modern Tren Maya may be just the adventure you are seeking. The rewards can be more than expected.
Visiting Maya ruins throughout Mexico and Central America is a passion for Delia McCrae. She is a retired Edmonton Public Schools teacher and loves train journeys.